Editor's press hanbok campaign in the ascendant. And this grassroots movement has a deep spiritual connection with the understanding of the Han nationality. From the Internet to promote the Hanfu remarks, "Hanfu refers to the period of the Three Emperors and Five Emperors to the Qing government to implement the pre-shaved clothes before the Han clothing system", "Han nationality costumes despite the influence of other national costumes, but its basic national characteristics Did not change ", such as" men's round neck dress from the Tang Dynasty has been extended to the Ming Dynasty "... really so? This article describes an important apparel revolution that took place in the late Northern Dynasties, involving the very familiar black gauze hat, jade belt, soap boot and the history of the "round neck robe." It turned out that this set of standard dress of ancient officials, all ethnic minorities, especially good at riding and riding the prairie ethnic costumes. The gorgeous history of apparel evolution may give us a deeper understanding and recognition of the "Chinese nation." ◆ Heavenly Creations ◎ Meng Hui "Wool hat" can be said that the meaning is well known to everyone, "put on a black hat", "lost yarn hat" Such expressions are still being used today. Through the ancient paintings and theatrical performances, people formed a deep impression: wearing a gauze hat, wearing a disk-neck gown, jade belt waist, pedal soap boots, is the classic style of ancient Chinese officials. However, this set of clothing in fact there is a distinct starting point, that is, the late Northern Dynasties. In the Qin and Han Wei and Jin Dynasties, in the Southern Dynasties, even in the early Northern Dynasties, absolutely can not see a similar style of men's clothing. For this important apparel revolution that took place in the Northern Dynasties, scholars in both Tang and Song dynasties knew exactly what they thought. As Shen Kuo in "Meng Xi Bi Tan Tan" pointed out: "China's clothing, since the Northern Qi Dynasty, but with full of Hu clothes .Slim sleeves, crimson shorts, long boots, Shooting, short clothing, Nagahama are easy to care for grass. "Zhu Xi also" Zhu Zi language "clearly said:" The present service, probably all wear, such as shirt, boots, shoes belong to. Do carry on .Chinese dress turmoil, since the Jin Wuhu, and later subsequently inherited, Tang then Sui, Sui then week, Zhou Jieyuan Wei, probably Jiefu. "Zhu mentioned the" shirt "," collar As a predecessor of "gown-in robes," this coat was indeed a "narrow-sleeved" short-sleeved shirt when the Northern Qi Dynasty first appeared. As Shen Kuo pointed out, the shape of the suit is always for horse riding, Archery, designed on the prairie trek. This coat is the most special place in its style, the Tang and Song dynasties called the "collar", the Ming Dynasty is called "group collar", "collar collar" or "round neck" is to cut the collar cut tightly around Round neck, button knot at both shoulders. Such a form is obviously to prevent sand from infusing the collar, in addition, once the weather turns hot, unzip the shoulders of the button, a pair of "collar collar" valgus, they formed an open "lapel", like today's suit lapel, As a result, it can dissipate heat and sweat - it is also the only lapel-style garment in the traditional Chinese clothing tradition. Also on the robe, shirt, for the convenience of riding, and pioneering the possible introduction of the "slits" from Persia. Buttons, slits these elements in the Qin and Han dresses never seen before, will gradually change to the traditional Chinese clothing flashing bright spots, and its first appeared in the overalls, shirts, are to serve the horse light Chi convenience. Belt tied to the waist of the collar is a special form of "蹀 躞 belt", embedded in the body with a metal ring, which is attached to the slender belt, called "蹀 躞" - these are set with vertical There are multiple buckles, you can Saber, quiver and a variety of portable small objects needed to hang one above the other, it is precisely suitable for a nomadic way of life. After the Tang dynasty, the settling life style of agricultural society became the norm. People did not need to carry everyday objects on their belts. The nao ring gradually became a luxury decorative plate and evolved into the "jade belt" often mentioned in literature. As for the long boots, it is clearly the source of "sapphire boots." In the late Northern Dynasties, a new type of headdress appeared. According to "Sui Shu etiquette" point of view, head down is derived from "Han Yi Guan" - the predecessor of the towel since the Eastern Han Dynasty, the square headdress. (However, Mr. Sun Ji believes that the head is made of Xianbei Mao improved, it is still a "Hu service.") In the Northern Wei Dynasty, the towel was to transform the four corners of the towel sewn lace , At the same time invented a very beautiful way to tie a pair of towel knot in the back of the head, another pair of towel with anti-Tie forward, head knot in front of knot, so called "fold towel." The purpose of inventing the first of its kind, the same is "war criminals are also" ("New Tang Shu uniforms"), with light silk to tighten the hair tight, overhead light and neat, natural without prejudice. However, roughly between the Sui and Tang Dynasties, in order to pursue the beauty of the shape, the head was added with a hard lining. From the Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty, the angle of the towel was also converted into a hat-like hatchback. At the same time, the drapery was replaced with stiffer gauze to eventually form a "gauze hat." In short, head, collar, girdle, long boots, this is a complete set of riding clothes, is a war suit, or that is, a complete cavalry uniform. The Sui and Tang dynasties were immediately made up of the world. Its upper-class society consisted of the swift and arrogant aristocrats. As a result, the garments worn daily by this group were automatically established as standards of clothing in the national political center. As early as in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the "uniforms" of the upper class took a north-south divide. In the Southern Dynasties, the male aristocrats still maintained the dresses of the upper and lower skirts, while "the Northern Dynasties were confused by the system of the Rongbian" Access to the provincial temple, unless the yuan is the General Assembly, all appointments. " The Sui and Tang dynasties followed the style of the Northern Dynasties. Although a very complicated and rigorous ritual system was formulated in a very serious and rigorous spirit, it is a pity that none of the elite athletes who run wild on horseback can become accustomed to long Skirts, high shoes, dangerous crowns and the like - can you expect Eisenhower to wear a skirt to go around everyday? Therefore, in addition to the "Yuan Zheng Assembly," a class of solemn occasions, usually still according to the convenience of the war suit. Tang emperor took the lead does not seriously respect the ancient ceremony, "its uniforms, red, yellow robe, folded scarf, nine ring belt, Liuhe boots, all from the North (North) Wei (North) week, After Zhenguan, non-Yuan-day, the winter solstice by the DPRK and the Great sacrifices, are often uniforms only. "(" Old Tang book public opinion service ") Li Yuan, Li Shimin these two born soldiers, are to towel, gown, belt, boots A complete set of war suits as a regular - the entire upper class are also true. As time goes by, this set of agile agile clothing actually evolved into liberal gentle, gentle and graceful Song, Ming official clothes. Until the forced establishment of a new system in the Qing Dynasty, "Hu Fu", "Wu Shamao, Tuoling Pants, belts, Soap Boots" became the "Former Officials' Official Service" .
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